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Restaurant
Review: Blackwell's Restaurant
By
Stacy Dermont
I
quite enjoyed the end of my East End summer at Blackwell's
Restaurant at Great Rock Golf Club in Wading River. In
fact I watched the last rays of summer sun play across
the golf course and water features from Blackwell's dining
room on Labor Day. Two couples were still playing their
last holes when our meal began with excellent white wines
suggested by Daniel Bonomini, Blackwell's Maitre D'.
I
found the service outstanding. Stefan, our server, worked
his European magic throughout our meal - including that
"neat trick" of sweeping our table spotless
before dessert.
Blackwell's
is primarily a steak house featuring U.S.D.A. prime dry-aged
steaks and chops but it also offers seafood, substantial
salads and daily specials. I ordered from their prix fixe
menu, which is available at different rates throughout
the week. I do love a prix fixe.
Blackwell's
is clearly proud of their selection of vintage cocktails.
I tried The Rock. It's all that a classic martini should
be and, yes, they get the ice just right.
I
started with Blackwell's Seafood Chowder. It was creamy
and rich but not too heavy and featured flavorful diced
vegetables and seafood. I was tempted by the Catch of
the Day, which was local swordfish, but I settled on the
Lemon Chicken. The chicken was tender, moist and mildly
lemony. The roasted potatoes were crispy on the outside
and creamy within. I did not have room for dessert - but
I ordered it anyway.
Two
words best describe Blackwell's New York Cheesecake: "GET
IT!" Blackwell's wisely employs a full time pastry
chef, Brittany McKnight. This cheesecake is perfection
from its miraculously dry graham cracker crust through
that bottom fluffy layer, through that wonderfully "sour
creamy" layer on top. The addition of fresh whipped
cream and ripe berries was truly "gilding the lily!"
My
dining partner was intrigued by the "Lobster &
Corn Beignets" and ordered them to start. Yum! I
could only get one half of one these high-end, savory
donuts away from him.
My
dining partner went for a steak. He ate the whole thing
- so I "had to help" him with his sides. The
steak was done just as he ordered it. It was flavorful
and juicy. Blackwell's mashed potatoes are a creamy delight
that taste like fresh potatoes. They are not overwhelmed
by condiments like so many mashed potatoes today. And
Executive Chef Chris Gerdes takes creamed spinach to a
whole new level. This is not your mother's creamed spinach.
We weren't even sure that it was creamed spinach at first
- it's so good!
No
doubt Gerdes' approach to vegetables is informed by the
fact that he has been growing food on his own Long Island
farm for the last 25 years. Our first meal at Blackwell's
made it clear why Gerdes was named Chef of the Year by
the New York Restaurant Association. Gerdes takes pride
in using many local ingredients and in buying from Long
Island family-owned companies exclusively. The wine list
includes wines by nine Long Island wineries like Lenz,
Raphael and Water's Crest. Bravo!
My
dining partner indulged for the sake of you Creme Brulee
Addicts out there. Yes, it's creamy, not-too-heavy, just
"vanilla" enough and the "crunch layer"
is well defined but not threatening to your dental work.
Bonomini offered a fine Moscato d'Asti to accompany our
dessert course. Truly our cups ranneth over.
Blackwell's
hits all the marks. Founded it in 2001, it's easy to see,
and taste, why it's become a popular site for catered
parties, especially showers and corporate events. It was
voted Best Restaurant last year by Golfing Magazine.
I
want to get back there to try another vintage cocktail
and see what the daily specials offer. I suppose I should
play a few rounds afterward, but it's so nice to just
watch.
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